I just finished this and shipped it off to one of my galleries. The botanical portion is made from BronzClay (Metal Adventures brand), and then riveted to sawn nickel silver and copper which has been textured.
The botanical image was made by carving into a soft block material. This is yet another way to use one’s own images to make jewelry.
One of my followers (wow, doesn’t that sound awesome?!) suggested I do a post on two-part silicone mold making. I will write that as soon as I can, as well as posting about the carving method used above.
Mostly botanical designs, some bronze and one sterling silver tree. I just finished these and they are ready to be shipped off to a gallery! I’m not really into bracelets myself, partially because I have very skinny wrists and also because they tend to present a hazard when working with equipment. I did, however, make one of these for myself with leather from a discarded briefcase in the trash and a face plate with larkspur stems. I love the larkspurs because they attract sphinx moths and tiger swallowtails to our garden.
Just finished these late last night. They are on their way to 45 Degree Gallery in Colorado Springs!
Tree Pendant, Mixed metal with Bronze, Copper and Brass. Sawn, Hammered, Riveted, Antiqued. Based on a post from Barbara Becker Simon, I tried several new firings of Metal Clay Adventures brand BronzClay. I have had decent success with firing the bronze clay in small stainless steel boxes (lunchbox style nesting boxes from The Container Store), coconut shell carbon, Full ramp to 1600 F, hold 3.5 hours. But sometimes random items would not sinter fully. Fortunately I was able to catch them before they were sent out to customers. Re-firing again for a second time solved the problem. Most of the time.
Barbara recommends firing base metal clays on an open shelf at Full Ramp, 1000F, hold 30 minutes and let cool. When cool, bury in the coconut shell carbon nest and fire as you normally do. (For me, this is the Full Ramp to 1600F, hold for 3.5 hours).
I have tried this method 3 times and it works PERFECTLY. The pieces are about 3 cards thick and though some are seriously warped after firing, annealing and hammering allows them to be flattened for riveting. I have had no cracks either after firing or after flattening. I generally drill holes before the firing.